If you look at the map of Berlin, you can see that Kreuzberg stands as a very large part of south Berlin. Therefore it makes sense to divide it in two parts, east and west. Besides that, those two parts are in fact really different and used to have specific zip codes. This side of Berlin was the very end of the American sector after the war, and the closer you would get to the Wall, the less you would find this lively and rich rhythm of West Berlin. Kreuzberg 61 was still kind of touched by this atmosphere, while Kreuzberg 36 stood as the cheapest part of the city, with low rents and a lot of empty spaces to occupy, since the area had been harshly bombed during WWII. The area therefore remained a bit less sensitive to the economic explosion happening next to it. Besides, the government announced that young men living in West Berlin would be exempted from national service — a statement which made all kinds of anarchists, hippies, punks and artists from all over Germany settle there. That’s how Kreuzberg built its reputation of alternative district, while being the field where strong political ideas and attitudes were growing.
Nowadays, as everybody knows, gentrification has made deep changes in the cityscape and at first glance, you would think the alternative Kreuzberg is gone. But it’s still a very popular area, where culture, food and nightlife bring all together a unique experience for the visitor.
The U-Bahn station Kottbusser Tor is Kreuzberg’s heart, and the square is actually a realistic reflection of how mixed this district is. Honorable Turkish old men sitting and talking in the northern corner, following the construction steps of the new mosque on Skalitzer Strasse — in the same building as some of the greatest night bars in the area. On the other side of the Adalbertstrasse, the favorite meeting point of all the junkies in town (hardcore visions, be careful). Then, on the south side of Skalitzer Strasse, one of the headquarters of the LGBT community, Südblock, with its lovely terrace — lively and different.
Kottbusser Tor is also the western point of Kreuzberg 36, so it’s a good start to explore the rest of the area. If you go south, you’ll reach the canal — a good spot to have a drink at Das Hotel for instance, or Brügge. Or if you walk a bit further, through the Admiralstrasse, you’ll reach the Admiralbrücke, favorite spot to watch the sunset. If you go north, you’ll reach the busy nightlife part of Kreuzberg.
This area is literally full of bars, while clubs are not far away — which explains why the main street, Oranienstrasse, is constantly packed with people going from one bar to another, eating some comfort street food before buying a beer at the nearest späti. You can start from the U-Bahn station Moritzplatz and have a look at the Prinzessinnengarten, a collective vegetable and fruit garden where you can also have a drink and eat some organic and vegan dishes.
As you will probably find out, Kreuzberg is one of the wildest places in Berlin to go out. Besides Kottbusser Tor, another exciting area is around the station Schlesisches Tor. After a walk along the northern side of the Landwehrkanal, you can follow any street going toward Görlitzer Park — an old train station destroyed during the war — to find a bar which fits your style. The Reichenberger Strasse or the Wiener Strasse, for instance, are pretty active. Have dinner on the Lausitzer Platz, next to the Emmaus church, or drop by the Markthalle Neun, a covered food market where you can buy local products and eat some delicious ribs or fresh salmon sandwiches (street food on Thursday evenings, otherwise daily schedule), then go through the park or along Skalitzer Strasse for a digestive walk. Kantine Kohlmann, Kirk, Sofia or Hopfenreich — for some craft beer in Kreuzberg — are good addresses for a drink.
The Schlesisches area is more about seriously going out: check out Bi Nuu, a little concert and club venue below the U-Bahn station, keep going with all the bars along the Schlesische Strasse and finish the night at the Chalet, the Arena or the Klub der Visionäre. The famous Watergate on the Spree closed its doors end of 2024 — a sign of the times, and one more reason to enjoy what’s still standing. To end this adventure in a proper way, you’ll definitely need a burger at Burgermeister, under the Schlesisches Tor U-Bahn station.
The main shopping street in this part of Kreuzberg is also Oranienstrasse, where you can find some multibrand high street fashion stores, the very famous Voo Store, and some more interesting shops. And of course, the second hand scene: for the full picture of vintage shopping in the area, read our Kreuzberg guide — mapped, and matched.